Stuff I Like, Part II: Cyclocross Bikes

• Having two CX bikes. The "A" bike is set up for dry, fast races, the "B" bike for muddy (or since last year, snowy) races.  It works great for racing Saturday and Sunday since the dirty bike doesn't need to be cleaned between races.  I don't usually put one in the pit during a race because my race isn't that important and I'd probably forget it there someday.
• Redline Conquest Team is my frame of choice.  Their geometry fits me best, with low standover so when you inevitably try some ill-advised maneuver you don't crunch anything important.  My "A" bike a 2011 Team and the "B" bike is a 2009 Team.  The 2011 has carbon stays that are shorter.  It climbs and corners better as a result.  
• Redline Team carbon forks.  Burliest legs/crown I've seen. Brake chatter is not a problem regardless of where you put the cable stop.  
• 34 mm tubulars for everything except really deep mud.  The extra volume is great for our sandy/bumpy courses, and the larger casing means more tire is on the ground.  
• 38/46 chainrings for fast courses.  Some say the big ring is not needed but I love shifting up and trying to churn away. My mud bike has a single 39T chainring and 11-28 cassette. 
• K-edge cross chainwatchers. The one for single ring setups is a good design and keeps the chain from bouncing vertically.  I have the one for double rings on my "A" bike also.
• Shimano Ultegra chains and cassettes.
• SRAM Rival shifters and derailleurs.  I like the positive, ca-chunk shifting, fixed brake levers, and hood shape.  The Rival derailleur is the best value since it is all aluminum and works as well as anything in SRAM's line.
• Avid Shorty Ultimate brakes.  The most powerful canti brake I've tried.  The mud clearance isn't the best but you can actually lock up a wheel with these things.  The ubiquitous TRP Euro-X is what I used to use.  They are god-awful compared to Shorty Ultimates.  I want to try TRP's CX-9 mini v-brake but haven't yet. 
• Challenge Fango tread.  More versatile than the Grifo. I use 34 mm for most races and 32 mm for mud.  Grifos are nice for grassy races or dry dirt. 
• Alloy rims in the mud or snow.  Braking is way better than carbon.  Carbon rims are light and the deep ones work better in deep sand, but when it's really wet or snowy I use alloy rims.
• Fizik microtex bar tape, black.  Always grippy and doesn't soak up water.
• Deda handlebars, the cheap, thick alloy ones with new-ergo style bend.  I ride the drops most of the time and like the shape.  I ride their widest size, 46 cm.  
• Thomson-style seatposts (two-bolt rocker style).  They don't slip, which is good when you're remounting onto your inner thigh.  Aluminum of course.

 I'm really interested to see how disc brakes make their way into CX.  Right now they are heavy and overkill for most races, but in a nasty race with fast descents they could be a big deal.  The advantages will not only be power and consistency in braking, but in rim shape, durability and weight, and not needing to adjust brakes/change pads when switching wheels.  I'm hoping for something like 140/120 mm rotors, small calipers and neatly integrated master cylinders.  I'd hope frame builders will adopt 135 mm O.L.D frame spacing so current MTB hubs can be used.