Not Knowing

About 2 months ago my Garmin heart rate strap stopped working.  Well, it worked but it said my HR was between 30 and 50 during my rides.  I'd love for that to be true but I'm pretty sure it's not. I tried multiple battery replacements and even followed the instructions, but to no avail.  Being semi-lazy and ever leery of being a whiny customer, I have yet to call them about replacing it.  Mostly because I don't care anymore.

The topic of "riding on feel"  is often romanticized in cycling; i.e. Fignon vs. LeMond and Ullrich or Pantani vs. Armstrong.  I've always liked Ullrich.  Not because of our physical likeness or our shared affinity for donuts, but because he seemed so unpredictable. Armstrong was boring, but I always hoped each year that Ullrich would come around and put the hammer down.  I often think of how Ullrich would've been the greatest TdF rider in history if not for Armstrong.  It's pretty amazing that those two were at their peaks during the same era.

So riding without data is nothing new and lots of people do it.  But I haven't.  Since I started riding I've had numbers on almost everything.  It's part of my nature I guess.  The objectification of it all appeals to me.  Since my HR strap died, I'm starting to like knowing less.
 
I subscribe to the theory that volume is key, and if you can ride hard you should (if you want).  If you are tired you shouldn't.  It's all Volume and Quality, based on how well recovered you are.  In short, if you feel crappy, don't go hard.  HR monitor not needed for that.  I am not one who has a problem with riding too hard all the time; the opposite is usually true.

That's not say I'm going to ditch the PowerTap. I like having that because it gives me concrete confirmation that I am not gifted. Power is absolute and shows me how far I have to go to be any good.  I don't need the +/- 2% accuracy, I could get by with "Normal" "Above-Normal" and "Below Normal" as output, but numbers are fine.

Lately I just track hours per week.  I think I have it figured out enough to know when to ride and when to not, and what I can get away with effort-wise.  The key for me is knowing I'm prepared for a race.  The numbers can back that up but sometimes it's better, or least not worse, to not know. 

               

Murphy Menace 50

With the Dakota 5-0 fast approaching, luck would have it there was a perfect training race to be held one week prior: the Murphy Menace 50 brought you by the Freewheel folk.  Murphy was the venue, 5 laps was our charge.   

I had never raced an endurance race prior to last Saturday.  My longest race up to then was one (or more) of the Hillside winter sufferfests, but even those were not beyond 2.5 hours, although the cold and devastating snow conditions really mess with one's mindset.  Anyway,  I was armed with some very sound advice from LGR endurance extraordinaire Jeff AP regarding proper fueling and pacing for such an event.  I also knew approximately how fast I could turn a lap at Murph' (44 minutes) so I had the benchmark to base my lap times on.

Using Jeff's advice and some other research on the matter, I set up a plan for race day.  I would not use a Camelbak because I hate them.  I would use 5 bottles, in the following sequence, 1 per lap:

1. HEED 1 scoop
2. HEED 1/2 scoop, Perpetuem 1/2 scoop
3. Perpetuem 1 scoop
4. Perpetuem 1 scoop
5. HEED 1/2 scoop, Perpetuem 1/2 scoop

I would also have 0.5 gels and (1) 100 calorie Pearson's Salted Nut Roll per lap to trick my brain into thinking I wasn't hungry.  I set up a cooler at the start/finish line with the above in it plus an extra bottle of pure water in case I decided I didn't want any of the above.

The race started out mellow and maybe a little slow but I knew it had to be kept in check.  My goal was to keep it at 90% of my TT effort (48.5 minute lap).  The first lap ended up a little faster than that but not by much.  Jeff must have given me advice that was slightly less good than the stuff he was operating under because he caught me halfway through the first lap and kept on gapping me.  I didn't care because he's better than me at this.

The second lap I toned down the pace a bit since I was straying from the 48.5 minute goal.  I spent much of that lap alone, which made me ride a touch slow.

I don't remember the third lap.  It went fine.  My time was very close to my goal.

The fourth lap felt the worst.  I caught a couple people who had so triumphantly passed me earlier so that was fun.  I was getting tired by this time but still was holding my pace.

During the fifth lap I was zoning out and trying to decide at what point I could start to hammer without risking cramping or similar. I felt pretty good considering this was all new to me.  I caught Jeff (he's been busy and hasn't trained to his usual volume).  Once we got to the bird sanctuary loop (my favorite section) it was time to go hard.  But I didn't really change speed apparently.  My lap time was about 1 second faster than the fourth lap. Oh well.

I finished in 13th place.  There were about 40-50 other people.  I was happy I was able to maintain my goal pace consistently and resisted the tempation to go too hard early.  I finished with some gas in the proverbial tank but I'd rather it be that way than the alternative.

It gives me some confidence for the upcoming climbing torture-fest in Spearfish, but not much.  I'm not yet an endurance racing convert but I suppose when I get old and slower it may have more appeal.  It was a fun race and a good test but two laps would have been just right.      

Stuff I Like, Part II: Cyclocross Bikes

• Having two CX bikes. The "A" bike is set up for dry, fast races, the "B" bike for muddy (or since last year, snowy) races.  It works great for racing Saturday and Sunday since the dirty bike doesn't need to be cleaned between races.  I don't usually put one in the pit during a race because my race isn't that important and I'd probably forget it there someday.
• Redline Conquest Team is my frame of choice.  Their geometry fits me best, with low standover so when you inevitably try some ill-advised maneuver you don't crunch anything important.  My "A" bike a 2011 Team and the "B" bike is a 2009 Team.  The 2011 has carbon stays that are shorter.  It climbs and corners better as a result.  
• Redline Team carbon forks.  Burliest legs/crown I've seen. Brake chatter is not a problem regardless of where you put the cable stop.  
• 34 mm tubulars for everything except really deep mud.  The extra volume is great for our sandy/bumpy courses, and the larger casing means more tire is on the ground.  
• 38/46 chainrings for fast courses.  Some say the big ring is not needed but I love shifting up and trying to churn away. My mud bike has a single 39T chainring and 11-28 cassette. 
• K-edge cross chainwatchers. The one for single ring setups is a good design and keeps the chain from bouncing vertically.  I have the one for double rings on my "A" bike also.
• Shimano Ultegra chains and cassettes.
• SRAM Rival shifters and derailleurs.  I like the positive, ca-chunk shifting, fixed brake levers, and hood shape.  The Rival derailleur is the best value since it is all aluminum and works as well as anything in SRAM's line.
• Avid Shorty Ultimate brakes.  The most powerful canti brake I've tried.  The mud clearance isn't the best but you can actually lock up a wheel with these things.  The ubiquitous TRP Euro-X is what I used to use.  They are god-awful compared to Shorty Ultimates.  I want to try TRP's CX-9 mini v-brake but haven't yet. 
• Challenge Fango tread.  More versatile than the Grifo. I use 34 mm for most races and 32 mm for mud.  Grifos are nice for grassy races or dry dirt. 
• Alloy rims in the mud or snow.  Braking is way better than carbon.  Carbon rims are light and the deep ones work better in deep sand, but when it's really wet or snowy I use alloy rims.
• Fizik microtex bar tape, black.  Always grippy and doesn't soak up water.
• Deda handlebars, the cheap, thick alloy ones with new-ergo style bend.  I ride the drops most of the time and like the shape.  I ride their widest size, 46 cm.  
• Thomson-style seatposts (two-bolt rocker style).  They don't slip, which is good when you're remounting onto your inner thigh.  Aluminum of course.

 I'm really interested to see how disc brakes make their way into CX.  Right now they are heavy and overkill for most races, but in a nasty race with fast descents they could be a big deal.  The advantages will not only be power and consistency in braking, but in rim shape, durability and weight, and not needing to adjust brakes/change pads when switching wheels.  I'm hoping for something like 140/120 mm rotors, small calipers and neatly integrated master cylinders.  I'd hope frame builders will adopt 135 mm O.L.D frame spacing so current MTB hubs can be used.
 

Border Battle 2011 race report

I made the drive out to River Falls, WI on Sunday for the Border Battle, the annual mountain bike race between lots of people from a few different states.  Personally I couldn't care less which state wins; I'm racing everyone in the Comp race, and regardless of their origin they are trying to beat me.

Still, lots of people show up so that's great. The course is fun and one that plays to my strengths, or at least doesn't take advantage of my weaknesses.  I raced it last year in the Sport class when LGR was dominating the class (no thanks to me). Most of us have moved up to relative mediocrity in the Comp class, but it's where I belong.  Sport is an odd mix of newbies and very fast sandbaggers.  I moved up because I was neither.

I warmed up on a climb that was thus far unfamiliar to me.  It was rocky and loose, sort of steep, but the other races had worn a defined path so it wasn't a big deal.  After riding around the singletrack a bit, I lined up late and sat at the very back of the rather large under 39 Comp group.  Not a good place to start considering we go immediately up a moderate climb.

I thought I was late to the line but sat there forever.  Finally they let the elites go, and we were next.  Sitting at the back, there was nowhere to go on the climb so I spun up it so slowly I don't even remember doing it.  Once we got to the top things started moving but there was much traffic in the singletrack, to the point of unclipping and waiting at the entrance.  The first lap was so frustrating.  One guy would dab on a climb and the domino effect would hold up 10-15 racers behind.  Someone even said, "Now it's a group ride" which was exactly right.

Photo by SkinnySki, obviously

Once the race came back to the base of the first climb I was so tired of yo-yoing in the pack I sprinted up the climb as hard as I could. It was almost comical, even for me, when the climb turned a corner and got steeper, pretty much shutting the door on my "attack."  I got by a lot of people, but in the ensuing aftermath I blew up and they all passed me back. The rest of the second lap was all kinds of bad for me.  I didn't crash but I was going so slow it wouldn't have mattered.

We got to the second, rocky climb, which seemed to wake up my legs and somehow I felt better.  The third lap I actually picked up the pace a bit and was more aggressive again.  Needless to say I took the last climbs at a steady pace.

In the end I managed my first top 50% overall in Comp, probably thanks to increased attendance and extra WI folks to race against.  I'll take it.

The Border Battle is likely my last MNMBS race for this season.  I will continue to hit the Hillside weeknight races, possibly a 50-mile race at Murphy, and the big one: Dakota 5-0.  After that it'll be a couple easy weeks, then the transition to CX season.         


 

For Sale: Trek Elite 9.9. SSL

My love affair with full suspension bikes is progressing to the next stage, so I'm willing to part with my beloved hardtail.  It's a true rocketship and climbs phenomenally.  If I was a World Cup racer in Europe or a short track specialist, this would be my primary steed. As it is I'm the point-and-shoot type so the full-suspension typically gets the nod.

Sub-21 pounds. OCLV carbon frame. 3x9 XTR, Fox fork, carbon wheels, seatpost, stem, and bars.  $2800.

Also selling some parts on ebay:

• Avid Elixir CR hydraulic disc brake set
• Shimano XT M770 10-speed shifter set

Stuff I Like, Part I: Mountain Bikes

Welcome to my blog.  To kick things off I'd like to share a few lists of cycling-related Stuff I Like.  I've seen other bloggers (specifically, local pro Brendan Moore) with similar posts and figure my lists might prove useful, as I seem to spew these preferences often to all who will listen.  I've been riding for a few years now and have tried a lot of different things.  Nothing groundbreaking here, just my preferences.  I'll post these lists in parts, in no particular order. 

Part I: Mountain Bikes.

1. 26" wheeled bikes.  More agile, lower BB height and center of mass, lighter, easier to accelerate, shorter chainstays/wheelbase for better climbing grip and faster cornering, and stiffer wheels.  29ers may have their place for some but there is no longer one in my stable. I like technical trails so the 26" has become my preferred ride.
2. Full suspension.  All travels are great, but for XC racing 100 mm is the ticket.  The current Trek Top Fuel is my favorite, although to be fair I haven't tried many of its competitors, but I don't need to. They are probably equally good.  A FS 26" will roll over obstacles better than a hardtail 29er at similar weight with better rear wheel traction and stay-seated efficiency. 
3. The Fuel EX is a really fun bike; the best all-purpose, all-day trail bike I've had.
4. Shimano disc brakes with resin pads.  SLX, XT and XTR work pretty much the same, so I like SLX since you save a boat load of money and only give up minor features and add some weight.  Pick XT if you want more adjustment and less weight.  Shimano brakes have the best modulation and power of any brand I've used.  They are insanely quiet.  Resin pads last a while as long as they don't get wet. CenterLock rotors should be an industry wide-mandatory standard.  6-bolt is a cruel joke in comparison.
5. Shimano XT/XTR drivetrain.  XTR shifters (multi-release is awesome), XT derailleurs (work as well as XTR but cheaper to replace), XT crank, XT cassette. SRAM stuff is okay but Shimano have stepped up their game big-time in recent years. Shifting is super positive, precise, and reliable. They forgo carbon when it doesn't make sense (ahem, SRAM) and get the best out of aluminum.
6. Shimano chains.  Ever since Cancellara broke a SRAM chain in Flanders a couple years ago, I copied him and use Shimano chains across the board.
7. Shimano chainrings and cassettes. They shift better than anything and are quiet and smooth. 
8. Tubulars.  Yes, MTB tubulars.  Expensive and there are not a lot of tires choices (yet?), but they are worth it.  Tubeless tires can't touch the suppleness and grip of a tubular.
9. DT Swiss 240S hubs.  Light, reliable, common, CenterLock available, tons of options, better engagement, not annoyingly loud, black.  No waste-of-money ceramic bearings.  Just great hubs that have been around a long time.
10. Fox forks and shocks.  Reliable and great build quality. Pro Pedal rear shock, always on, no lockout.
11. 9° backsweep, 5° upsweep low-riser bars.  640 mm wide.  
12.  Remote fork lockouts.  As much as I dislike the extra gizmo and cable, it feels better locked out while out of the saddle, with less chance of forgetting it.
13. Having 4 tire choices: Dry, All-Purpose, Wet, and Mud.  Bring the all-purpose treads every time, plus one of the others depending on conditions. My choices in the above categories: Geax Saguaro, Maxxis Crossmark, Bontrager XR3, Bontrager Mud X
14. New Crank Brothers Candy alloy-body pedals, specifically the Candy 3.  Better design than the last version, easier to clean, tougher.  Still cheaper than other brands' high-end pedals.
15. Gears.  I tried single speeding for most of an entire year and will never do it again.  It made me a better rider and taught me the importance of gear selection, but I am convinced any rider is faster with gears once they know how to use them.  Oppressive, derailleur-eating mud is a good place for a SS, but beyond that it feels like a handicap to me.
16. Non-rigid bikes.  A semi-repeat of above.  I have a hard time understanding why some people prefer rigid bikes for every course.  Again, I tried rigid bikes for a whole year but it made my wrists hurt and I bouced all over the place.  Line selection becomes so critical it makes my brain hurt. They are fun at certain courses, but I'm faster on a full suspension bike.
17. 2x9/10 drivetrains.  I like 1x9/10 drivetrains but grew tired of swapping chainrings, and couldn't accept using one for everything. Lighter and simpler is good, but so is not having to change rings. My favorite chainring combo is 32/42. 
18. ESI chunky grips.  Soft and compliant but very grippy and they don't spin on the bars.  Black is the only color worth buying; every other color looks terrible after one ride. 
19. Blackburn carbon bottle cages, matte black.
20. Selle Italia SLR XP saddles.  I use them across the board.
21. Bontrager RXL stems. Very light, but torsionally stiff and cheaper than most high-end stems. Clean and simple.
22. Bontrager, Easton, or DT Swiss pre-built wheelesets.
23. Black bikes and components (except crankarms).  Stealthy and clean. You can use electrical tape for frame protectors.  Cables blend in.  Everything matches. 

   Next up: Cyclocross